Mount Bromo panorama by Robert Machacek.

Rubbing bleary eyes, I gurn and moan to myself about the ungodliness of having to get out of bed at 3am.

Generally, the only way I’m up at this hour is after a night out. That’s acceptable. What is not so acceptable is being talked into doing a trek up the side of a still-smouldering volcano, agreeing to it – under duress – only to discover the intrepid adventure requires a 3am start.

Not happy.

Yep, you’ve guessed it; I’m not a morning person. Never was, never will be.

On the upside, having my grumpy face on this particular chilly morn means fellow trekkers give me a wide berth, automatically negating the need for small talk. Small joys!

We are staying in a small hotel in Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park in East Java, on the edge of a 10km wide volcanic caldera. Within the caldera, known locally as Tengger Massif, are two active volcanoes, Mount Semeru and Mount Bromo – Indonesia’s most active volcanoes, the latter of which erupted in January 2011.

Ash cloud above Mount Bromo, Jan 2011.
Image: Photovolcania

It was this volcano I was about to trek to. In the dark.

I can’t say I’m a massive trekking in the dark person. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good trek, but usually I like to see where I’m going. Obviously, not everyone is of the same opinion as a handful of die-hard trekkers set off, gingerly feeling their way down the path.

I quietly raise an eyebrow, watch, and wait.

It takes about one minute for the first tumble down the steep slope. Is it wrong I have a slight smirk on my face? I put it down to sleep deprivation.

I go for the sensible option and wait patiently for a flashlight, fully expecting the tour guide to diligently hand them out to the group. And indeed he does. Four of them… for 12 people! What was I thinking? We’re in Java; they don’t even use headlights on winding roads with sheer drop-offs. What fool would need a flashlight? Phfft!

So – no longer smiling – I fall into line behind one of the lucky light holders and concentrate on nothing more than putting one foot in front of the other. Slipping and sliding as we go, our small group moves slowly down the banking until the ground flattens underfoot.

The freezing fog starts to lift and I can finally breathe without guarding my chest against the chill. Gradually, the light changes; the fog dissipates, revealing the vast, wide plateau of a long-dead volcano. Floating in the remaining cloud, as if a mirage to the weary, sits an impressive temple made of local volcanic rock.

Built by the indigenous people to the area, the Pura Luhur Poten temple is of great religious significance to the Tenggernese. Subscribing to the teachings of Mahayana Buddhism, this little temple has done well to survive many conflicts in Java, probably due to its inaccessibility. Every year, the local believers hold a festival to give thanks to their gods by tossing food offerings into the volcano.

Strombolic activity at Mount Bromo, 2011, with Pura Luhur Poten temple in the foreground.
Image: Tom Pfeiffer

As daybreak approaches, the step quickens. I pound on across the Sea of Sands, thinking of nothing else but getting to the edge of the volcano before sunrise.

It wouldn’t just be a shame to miss sunrise after all the effort exerted to get to the sacred spot, the spot of the edge with your name on it, no, it would be downright annoying.

Then, as if to put my definition of annoying into perspective, falling into line at the bottom of the volcano are four buses. Each one loaded with tourists wrapped in puffer jackets to ward off the early morning chill. And not a bead of sweat in sight.

We watch from a distance as they swagger up the side of the volcano, lining it like little dots of bird poo. We’re too far away for it to make any real difference if we run, yet break into that weird half-running, half-walking mode that gets you nowhere very quickly.

Struck dumb by their audacity, my mind struggles to find the right expletives while I ask myself – and my travel companion – why the hell did nobody mention you could get a bus the whole way up here?

Then, as human nature kicks in, we are awash with renewed vigour and dogged determination. We march right up the side of that volcano, past the poor exhausted ponies ferrying far-too-big-for-them people and up the steep wooden staircase built on to the side of the volcano to nab a prized position on the rim, upwind of the sulphur fumes. Take that, you pesky proud puffer jacket people!

A pony quietly pleading to not make him go up there again!
Image: Linda McCormick/EcoTraveller

Shivering madly, we huddle together for warmth, get the camera poised, and wait for ‘the happening’.

This is where you would normally read about the orange and yellow hues of the rising sun pouring across the horizon like honey-coloured syrup. The rays of the morning sun washing over my face, warming my jubilant yet exhausted heart.

It probably shouldn’t read:

The sun came up. At some point. But it was a bit too cloudy for it to be anything special. The orange and yellows never really appeared, and the only photos I got were filled with grey clouds of sulphur smoke hiding a distant light in the background.

My only decent shot of Mount Bromo.

It wasn’t a life changing moment. It was disappointing. So disappointing!

At the time I remember thinking, “I cannot believe I came all the way for this!” Far too many things had gone wrong to get to this point. I could have avoided the terrible food poisoning on the way here, the cramped conditions on the ridiculously over-filled tour bus, the bus driver with a death wish. I should have gone with my gut

Yet, many years later, somehow, I remember it mostly fondly. I’m glad I did it. Even for all the complaining at the time. (And there was a lot!) It was an experience. And even though at the time it was one I was wishing I never had, I now put it down to traveller fatigue. We had been on the road for four months, surfaced from Thailand down through Malaysia and Singapore, before crossing to Java.

Would I say it was worth it?

Of course! You need a few rough times to appreciate the smooth sailing when travelling. It’s not about only doing things you know you’re going to love; it’s about trying new things, pushing yourself and testing your limits. Sometimes leaving your comfort zone – yep, even at 3 o’clock in the morning – is a good thing.

Have you ever had a really disappointing travel experience only to remember it differently years down the line? Have you ever been on a trip that really wasn’t worth it, and you wouldn’t recommend doing?

Come on, be honest. It’s cathartic!

Sunset, West Bali National Park. All images © Natasha Von Geldern

When I stayed at The Menjangan, an eco resort in the West Bali National Park, I had an opportunity to have a frank discussion with the manager about the challenges of running eco-branded property in developing countries.

To start with, there is no doubt the people of West Bali care deeply about the environment. Ten years ago the local fishing community decided to stop fishing (often with dynamite) and concentrate on running diving and snorkelling trips. The result is the healthiest coral and most abundant sealife in Bali.

The Menjangan – run by the Lifestyle Retreats group – is a sensitively constructed, responsibly-run resort that works proactively for the conservation of the national park. This property is the only property to have a license to operate within the park itself.

Swimming Pool at The Menjangan.

However, as the manager pointed out, he can ensure eco standards are maintained within the resort but, for example, once carefully recycled waste leaves the property, there is no control over how Bali deals with it.

The park is home to a lot of significant wildlife, such as deer, macaques, monkeys, wild pigs and many birds, including the endangered Bali Starling. But a wild pig is worth 3 million rupiyah dead – up to three months’ wages for some Balinese – and if the pigs happen to wander out of the park…

The Menjangan, West Bali National Park.

So the environmental motivation is there, if not always the knowledge, or the public infrastructure. I suspect such challenges arise for eco businesses in many parts of the world.

What is West Bali National Park like? And how about staying at The Menjangan?

It is difficult to be prepared for what the park is like. The best way I can think to say is that when I arrived I thought I had been transported from tropical Bali across continents to Africa.

The jungle is made up of primarily deciduous trees that are quite bare in the dry season, making for great wildlife viewing conditions. The accommodation is lodge-style and tucked gently into the landscape. There are horse riding, mountain biking and bird watching tours available.

The view of West Bali National Park from the Bali Tower at the Menjangan.

The only obvious architectural feature is the Bali Tower, a thatch-roofed building that offers blissful breakfasts on the deck and stunning sunsets over the savannah, the Bali Sea and the mountains of Java.

Safari vehicles transport guests between the various parts of the park and I saw tiny brown Barking Deer, and the large soft-gray Menjangan Deer browsing in the undergrowth. A sparkling blue Kingfisher swooped through the trees to alight near the track.

Menjangan Deer in West Bali National Park.

Down at the beach there are loungers, private pavilions, lanterns and a romantic restaurant. While I was waiting for my food a Menjangan deer and her fawn came picking their way through the mangrove shallows under a starry sky and crescent moon.

The Blue Illusion dive centre offers a full range of services, including boat trips to the excellent ‘house reef’ in Banjul Bay and also to Menjangan Island. As promised it is a lovely reef, with hardly any of the dead coral I have seen in Thailand and other parts of Asia.

Diving Menjangan Island, West Bali National Park.

Clown fish ducked in and out of their swaying anemones, Parrot fish swayed up from the depths, and the coral is subtle colours of lemon and pink, with the occasional splash of amethyst.

The West Bali National Park is several worlds away from the over-developed horrors of south-east Bali and it is good to know that there is an eco-resort partnering with the locals to keep it that way.

Drifting slowly along the Yarra under bright moonlight, water laps gently against the side of the kayak. I’m lulled by the rhythmic rocking of the tide. My breathing slows, keeping time with the dip and rise of the oar and I wonder why it’s taken me so long to explore Melbourne this way.

Life on the water has always appealed, even if for a few hours in a kayak. And because I’m always urging people to discover what’s going on in their own back yard, I thought it was about time to bite the bullet; practice what I preach and investigate life along the Yarra from a different perspective.

The evening tour I was booked on with Kayak Melbourne set off from the boat sheds at Docklands at 7pm sharp. It’s summer here, but it still gets dark early so you don’t have to wait too long to get a view of the cityscape at night.

Having a quick lesson on how to steer a tandem kayak
Photo credit: Kayak Melbourne

After a five minute lesson on how to manoeuvre a tandem kayak I’m introduced to my partner for the trip, the lovely Lissa. In the throes of a whirlwind tour of Australia, like me she has never used a tandem kayak. We set off slowly, getting used to the paddles and pedals, trying hard to keep each other on the straight and narrow, quite literally.

Rowing towards Ethiad Stadium and the city.

Slowly, we circle the docks in front of the Ethiad Stadium, practising our new moves and limbering up for the next few hours of paddling ahead while our guides Kent and Matt reveal little morsels of Melbourne history along the way.

The Docklands served as a main hub for migrants to the area in the 1850s and was a busy port during the gold rush in the region, but in the 1960s, when container shipping became commonplace, the existing docks were too small to keep up with demand so trade moved to bigger wharfs. The area remained relatively untouched until the early ‘90s, when it was earmarked for massive redevelopment as an urban waterfront.

Now tall, glass-shrouded skyscrapers line the docks, with only a handful of luxury yachts using the moorings.

It is here we pull up, tie up and wait while our complimentary meal of good old-fashioned fish and chips is brought to our laps. It’s a chance to grill Kent as to why he left his high-powered job in the city to run kayak tours, but as the sun sets, throwing a kaleidoscope of colours across the sky, lighting the surrounding buildings in violet and orange, it’s pretty obvious why this office is a much nicer place to be.

Enjoying fish ‘n’ chips, à la lap

Heading off towards the Bolte Bridge, now fine silhouette in the setting sun, I’m told the towers straddling either side are not just higher than Sydney Harbour Bridge, but that they’re not even attached to it. It’s an impressive bridge from a distance, with its tall towers stretching for the sky, but somehow I much prefer the view from below. The long lines of the concrete roadways above are lit from below, giving it a 1920s Art Deco feel.

A different perspective: the long sleek lines underneath the Bolte Bridge

It just screams to be photographed. So I try, and discover it’s not so easy to take still photographs while half paddling a kayak – or rather while your partner is paddling the kayak!

After the bridge we take a left turn into the Yarra and discover just how fast we can row when we realise the lights in the distance are those of a scenic cruise heading straight for us. Like oversized ducklings, we quickly follow Matt’s lead and hug the side of the banks, trying not to capsize in the wash of the passing boat.

We had been assured at the beginning of the tour the kayaks are pretty much uncapsizable, then some bright spark pipes up, “That’s what they said about the Titanic.” Still, we manage to survive our little brush with the ripples and continue on our way.

We row past the disused warehouses that could tell a few stories of old Dockland living. The giant wooden sheds are blackened and broken with age. They sit empty, staring across to the city like worn-down old men trying to make sense of it all.

Now the only life here seems to be a few well-loved yachts and the seagulls.

We pass fancy vacant tri-level houses and lively bars and restaurants – the sprawl of the new age – until we reach the Crown casino. Here the tour stops and waits for the fire ball show that lights up Southgate every night. For some, this was the highlight of the tour. Once finished we meander at a leisurely pace on past more crowded bars and restaurants, vibrant with the usual clamour of an evening before arriving at our end point: the rowing sheds just past Flinders Station and Princes Bridge.

Melbourne sky line at night.
Much nicer is real life, but hard to get a good shot while paddling a kayak!

Lissa and I try and replicate Kent’s fancy parking method – taking a good run – or row – up to the ramp, but fail miserably and have to be pulled in like everyone else.

Surprised at how good I feel after three solid hours of rowing, I promise myself to explore more of my adopted hometown before all of its old heart is razed forever. And may even, maybe, take up rowing!

Disclosure: My place on the tour was complimentary through Viator, all opinions and blurry photos are my own.

Long overlooked in favour of the world’s most popular tourist sites, the tiny state of Montenegro guards its wonderful natural charms quietly. This small country is bursting at the seams with beautiful scenery, including vast national parks, snow capped mountains and clear turquoise lakes.

Still relatively undiscovered by mass tourism, Montenegro is a great destination for those looking for a bit of unspoilt nature in the country’s excellent national parks.

Durmitor National Park

Image: Pudelek

Heading out from Podgorica into the countryside, the beautiful hidden secret of Montenegro’s interior is revealed. Durmitor National Park, in the north of the country, boasts no less than 18 lakes, interspersed by almost 50 mountain peaks and provides stunning scenery and excellent hiking and walking opportunities.

Large Skrka Lake, Dumitor National Park. Photo Credit: Vlado Vujisic

The Tara River is definitely worth seeing, and a tour along it will take you through forest and open spaces of parkland in this UNESCO designated World Heritage Site.

Image: Milan B

There’s also the Skadar Lake National Park not far from the capital Podgorica, which is home to a large amount of wildlife and plant species in a uniquely untouched national preservation area. Lake Skadar itself is the largest of its kind in the Balkans, and it’s here that you’ll find the Pavlova Strana which is undoubtedly the most photographed natural site in Montenegro, surrounded by the Crnojevica River. Apart from this major tourist attraction, the National Park is a quiet and untouched natural park, popular only with fishermen going about their day’s business.

Skadar Lake National Park

Image: Wusel007

Elsewhere, there’s the Ivanova Korita Adventure Park, which is the perfect place to bring the kids if you want them to have fun whilst enjoying the beautiful natural surrounds. Located in the Lovcen National Park, the Adventure Park allows young and old alike to behave like monkeys and swing across the forest canopies before launching themselves onto tree platforms high above the ground. Those really wanting a piece of nature will also be delighted to know they can sleep in the park in the numerous chalets available for hire.

Lovcen National Park

Image: Michal Krumnikl/Darwinek

As Montenegro’s secret gets out and mass tourism gets a foothold, it is likely that these areas will become thronged with even more visitors in the summer months. Others will enjoy visiting in the winter months, where the mountain ranges offer great skiing and sledging opportunities.

Whatever your preference, it is fair to say that Montenegro will not disappoint!

Comprised of a group of dedicated storytellers who squeeze in six to nine films per hyper-focused trip, interviewing 10 to 14 people a day, the folks at the Green Living Project (GLP) seek to:

“educate and inspire individuals and communities to live a more sustainable lifestyle through stories focused on unique and diverse examples of sustainability from around the world.“

Before the GLP production team sets out, their education and research team painstakingly seeks out non-profits in the region to find out not only who is doing the most good, but also what organisations have the most inspiring tales.

This year’s filming took them through Eastern and Central Africa, and they’re headed to Asia (Northern Hemisphere) this fall and winter. They’ve made it to 17 countries so far in North, Central, and South America and Africa. In select cities this fall, they are premiering films from their recent trip to Africa.

GLP Premieres at the Ecotourism and Sustainable Tourism Conference

At this year’s ESTC, we were treated to a special advance screening of two of GLP’s new African films, along with several of their other recent favourites:

• Okapi Conservancy – Democratic Republic of Congo: A powerful film depicting a preserve that protects Okapi, a rare zebra-like creature that was attacked shortly after filming. Rebels killed six staff members, took 50 hostages, and slaughtered all of the conservancy’s okapi.
• Angelic Organics Learning Center – Illinois: As the first CSA available in Chicago, Angelic Organics has long sought to remedy the food desert in Illinois’ urban areas through small urban plots and outreach. Mixing farm and gardening education, work experience, and leadership opportunities, Angelic Organics reaches underprivileged youth and connects them with the land and better opportunities for their own free time and future.
• Potters for Peace – Nicaragua: Women are trained in Pre-Colombian pottery techniques to create a livelihood for themselves and also create free, simple ceramic water filters that remove 99.9% of the bacteria in water to distribute to communities struggling with access to clean water. The number of children who die each day from unsafe drinking water is akin to four jet planes full of children crashing each day.
• Equilibrio Azul – Ecuador: In Porto Lopez, Ecuador, where the economy revolves around the fishing industry, GLP profiles Andre Vaquero and the team at Equilibrio Azul, who collect data on the negative impact of industrial fishing on sharks, turtles, and other marine life, and educate local fisherman in sustainable fishing techniques
• Working Bikes – Chicago: Since 1989, the Working Bikes has gathered donated or trashed bikes and shipped 37,000 bikes in 90 shipments to developing countries where they create both jobs (through repairs) and modes of inexpensive transportation. Some bikes are also fixed in their shop and donated to underprivileged children in Chicago and across the nation.
• Naboisho Conservancy – Kenya: In order not only to protect their land, but to profit from it without hunting or selling it off in pieces, 500 Masai landowners banded together to create a group land management approach that allows wildlife to breathe and creates sustainable income for the Masai community.

After each film, Rob Holmes, GLP’s director/producer and chief storyteller, shared an important take-away from each film. Even though we may not be able to go to Ecuador ourselves and help take care of the turtles, we can make sure we never use another plastic bag.

GLP’s New Africa Films

GLP will be premiering their new films around the U.S. this fall and winter. Check their events page to see when they’ll be showing near you.

In addition to the films about the Naishobo and Okapi Conservancies we caught at ESTC, they also have four other new films about Africa:

• Fairtrade Africa – Tanzania: indigenous farmers growing fair trade coffee on the slopes of Africa’s highest mountain.
• UNITE – Uganda: (pictured above) conservation education for primary school children.
• Thompson Safaris – Tanzania: community-based tourism collaboration between Thompson and the Maasai near Serengeti National Park.
• Mount Kenya Trust – Kenya: conserving the Mount Kenya National Reserve Elephant population and their migration corridors.

You can catch the gorgeous trailer here.

Do films like these make you want to get out and volunteer? Broaden your horizons about important issues around the world? Bring parts of the world to you that you might never make it to otherwise?

The echidna scuffled in the undergrowth, digging its claws into the soil in alarm at our approach, spines bristling. We stood still for a minute and it eventually relaxed and carried on its way.

In so many countries I visit the best way to see the real landscape, the most beautiful wild places, is to get out of your car and walk. Not just a few hours but days, to get away from human habitation and interference with the environment. That is the best way to experience a great eco travel destination such as Australia.

You may have heard of the Great Ocean Road in Australia? Well this is the walk. Having now both driven and hiked along this coastline I have to say the walk wins hands down.

Walk the along the beaches of The Great Ocean Road, Australia

Australia’s Great Ocean Walk is a newbie in the ‘great hikes of the world’ stakes but it has every appearance of bursting through the rankings soon. A seven-day meander along the stunning “Shipwreck” coast of Victoria, it is an opportunity to experience natural Australia.

Less of the trail is on the actual coastline than you may expect but the walk is all the more varied for that. It is not just about gazing at the endless horizon of the Southern Ocean. It is also about walking through light-filled Stringybark woodland with an understory of whispering Grass Trees.

Or through lush rainforest; or under clouds of white flowering Tea Tree. There are tiny hyacinth orchids, bridal bouquets of mountain clematis, and other wildflowers with wonderful names like the “Running Postman”.

Australia’s infamous Stringybark trees.

With no more than 12 hikers at a time staying at the Bothfeet Walking Lodge and hikers generally encouraged to walk only in the westerly direction, we never saw another soul on the Great Ocean Walk.

This was my first experience of a guided hike and I was impressed with the knowledge of our guide, Jane, and also with her ability to manage the group so as to allow people of different fitness levels to walk at their own pace.

At the end of each day a blissful foot spa awaited at the eco lodge, followed by a gourmet three-course meal and the smooth sheets of a comfortable bed. I’m not sure which was most welcome.

Enjoy a wonderful foot soak after a long day walking.

On the final day the Great Ocean Walk culminates at the incredible Twelve Apostles, one of Australia’s big-hitting tourist attractions. After a couple of hours walking through woodland we crested a hill and there was an audible gasp of excitement from the group as we sighted the Apostles for the first time.

Now we walked above the coast through low heath and fragrant coastal rosemary. Those famous rock stacks – eight of them, or is it nine – got slowly closer and closer as we reached the top of each rise. It was an overcast day, making for perfect walking conditions, but as we approached the final lookout the sun suddenly burst through the clouds.

The Great Ocean Walk ends with a view of the iconic Twelve Apostles… or is it Nine?

I literally ran up the hill towards the viewing platform, all thoughts of tired legs gone. The sun bathed the Apostles and I collapsed onto a seat to take it all in with my eyes and my camera lens. This is truly an opportunity to see one of Australia’s most iconic landscapes from a different perspective and without being surrounded by hordes of tourists, or by anyone at all if you wish.

Bothfeet runs a full seven-day Great Ocean Walk itinerary as well as a shorter four day Twelve Apostles Walk. Hikers can opt to walk guided or self-guided – both are able to stay at the luxurious Bothfeet Walking Lodge, make use of the transport services and enjoy the delicious meals prepared by the in-house chef. The guided walk package includes a thrilling 10-minute helicopter flight over the Twelve Apostles. Bothfeet is a member of the Great Walks of Australia.

Disclosure: Natasha’s tour and lodge stay with Bothfeet were complimentary. All views, images, and blisters are her own.

The Historical City of Babylon

Perhaps it’s not the top of everyone’s ecotourism ‘must-see’ list, but the tourist ministry of Iraq is working hard to lure visitors back to the ancient kingdom. And, alongside the promotion of the traditional tourist sites, there is a concerted effort to develop and nourish the surrounding natural environment in a bid to attract eco tourists.

Whilst the traditional religious sites and shrines at Najaf and Karbala pull in a large proportion of tourists from neighbouring Iran and other countries with Shia minorities, the tourist ministry thinks there is huge potential to be uncovered at the many other sites of natural and historical interest. This would diversify the tourist industry in Iraq and restore much needed confidence in the war torn country.

Iraqi Marshlands

In the future, it is hoped that the marshlands in the South of the country will be restored to their former glory, and that eco tourists will flock to see this unique natural environment.

Destroyed by Saddam Hussein in order to punish dissenting locals, the marshlands previously boasted beautiful wildlife and scenery, but were reduced to desert and rubble by Hussein. It is hoped that the regeneration will bring back the water buffalo, birds and otters that used to live in the area, which many believe is the site of the Garden of Eden.

Maʻdān mudhif traditional reed structure, Al Kuthra, Iraq

Ecologists from all over the world have been working with local scientists in a bid to rehydrate the area and bring it up to standard as an international ecotourism destination. Tourists will then be able to access the marshlands from the city of Al Amarah.

Also on the tourist ministry’s radar is the ancient kingdom of Babylon, once home to the hanging gardens and boasting numerous ruins of archaeological significance, but which now lies largely abandoned, its facilities in disrepair.

The Ancient City of Babylon

Development of this wonderful area, which would include the ruins of the palace of Nebuchadnezzar and also numerous uncovered treasures, as well as the still buried remains of ancient buildings, would ensure this area regains its recognition as a world heritage site and bring thousands of tourists back to the region. Watch this space.

Image Credits: Petrusbarbygere / Hassan Janali / James Gordon / Mike Feeney

With a sharp business sense and an inability to compromise on the values of ecotourism, Bulent Saraloglu has become a leading figure in the Turkish tourism landscape, collaborating frequently with the government to implement ecotourism programs in Eastern Turkey, where he is from, and other parts of the peninsula.

After the International Conference on Ecotourism in the Eastern Black Sea Region, I sat down with Bulent to discuss his take on ecotourism in Turkey.

Bulent is sitting on the left.

How did you first become interested in ecotourism?

In high school, I went to a yayla and spent time with the locals. I loved the people, the nature. In university, my cousin, a photographer, was bringing a group to the Karcal mountains and I begged him to take me along. I guided that group, and then came back and started reading lots of books about guiding, and I wrote to national parks, government offices, and magazines for more information. I even wrote letters to the U.S. asking for materials.

In 2000 we [Bulent and his partner Okan Yenipun] started BUKLA. I thought I was new to ecotourism, but as I read about it, I realised we were doing it already even though we didn’t know what it was.

BUKLA is the number one yayla tour operator in Turkey. [Yaylas are mountain top villages traditionally used by nomads in the summer. See our yayla coverage here] What drew you to begin running yayla tours?

Lots of [yayla] guides are outsiders. They don’t live in the region and know the people in the yaylas. All my staff grew up in the region and know the culture–the food, ceremonies, and rituals.

When I first started, there was nobody, it wasn’t popular like now. But I don’t go to the big places. Even Pokut [picture below] is a crowded yayla.

The yaylas are open form June to September, and people from each village go to the yayla together, so there is one yayla for each village. People used to come to pasture their animals, but people doing agriculture here [in eastern Turkey] now are richer than elsewhere in Anatolia. They are hardworking and often work in the city, so in the yayla, maybe 10 people come to make cheese, and the rest come to relax. The new generation had stopped coming [to the yaylas], but they’ve started to in the last ten years.

Bulent helps a group cross a river during a hike, wearing his characteristic hiking uniform: designer tee, tight jeans, and branded sneakers.

How many people tour with BUKLA each year?

There’s usually 14 clients per tour, and we guide around 5000 people total each season, with about 600-700 in just the Black Sea Region. The season is the school summer, about mid-June to mid-September, but it’s really concentrated to mid-July to mid-August. Ramadan has been taking place in the summer for the last few years, and during Ramadan people don’t really travel. It’s hard to hike [when you're fasting].

Sign at a popular riverside picnic site: “Leave your love, not your trash.”

I have to ask about all the trash, because you pointed it out several times on our trip. What’s up with the Turks leaving garbage all over these beautiful natural areas?

I think they just don’t realise the trash stays. They think it goes away. At the Oberj [the ecolodge Bulent and his partners run in Ayder], we have information about how to behave.

A porter at Bulent’s Oberj brings guests bags up the mountain via a hand-cranked luggage gondola.

Is there anything else you’d like our readers to know about ecotourism in Turkey?

90-95% of our visitors are Turkish. Most foreigners don’t know that we have a rainforest in Turkey. The government doesn’t have any brochures about it, but on the Turkish national tourism website, there are 18 types of tourism listed— nature tourism, adventure tourism, etc. — and 12 are ecotourism. Tourism is a $25 billion industry in all of Turkey, but maybe only $100 million is ecotourism.

The irreplaceable historic and architectural treasures of Mali’s great desert city, Timbuktu, are under threat of destruction by Islamist rebels occupying the city. 

Timbuktu, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988, has already suffered several attacks on its religious monuments, including the destruction of several ancient shrines of Muslim saints that the fundamentalist attackers consider to be idolatrous.

“God is unique. All of this is haram (forbidden in Islam),” Sanda Ould Boumama, spokesman for the militant Islamist group Ansar Dine (Defenders of Faith), said to the Telegraph.

Earlier this year, Tuareg separatist rebels declared the northern part of Mali the independent state of Azawad. Since then the MNLA (the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad), Ansar Dine and the local branch of al-Qaeda, AQIM, have been engaged in an internal power struggle for the land and the hearts of the northern Malians. The upper hand seems to belong to the hardline Islamists, who want to introduce Sharia law and aim to destroy any remnants of other religions or cultures. This includes attacks against historical monuments and buildings dedicated to religion.

Several saints are buried inside Timbuktu’s three historic mosques. The city is also home to sixteen cemeteries and mausoleums, according to the UNESCO website. One resident of Timbuktu, a former tour operator, told the Telegraph that the Islamists had also threatened to destroy the ancient mosques: “The Islamists told us that if there are saints inside the mosques, they will also destroy these mosques.” These events have prompted UNESCO to add Timbuktu to its List of World Heritage in Danger.

Both Mali’s government and the international community have appealed to the rebels to stop the destruction of these cultural treasures.

The International Criminal Court (ICC) even considers these attacks as war crimes. “My message to those involved in these criminal acts is clear: stop the destruction of the religious buildings now. This is a war crime which my office has authority to fully investigate,” ICC Chief Prosecutor Fatou Bensouda told the global news agency AFP, according to the Telegraph.

Timbuktu has an almost mythical status, its very name evoking a far-away, isolated place.

Located on the southern edge of the Sahara, the “City of 333 Saints” is nearly 1,000 years old. With its characteristic mud mosques rising from the sand, the city is a center for Islamic scholarship. About 700,000 ancient manuscripts are held in the town’s approximately sixty libraries. Timbuktu was a popular alternative tourist destination until a series of tourist kidnappings by a group linked to al-Qaeda scared away travelers.

In early July, UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee called for the creation of a special fund to help Mali conserve its cultural heritage. The Committee has appealed to UNESCO member states, the Organization of Islamic Cooperation, and the Islamic Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization to give to the fund.

Image Credits: Martha de Jong-Lantink / Michel Rogalski / Emilio Labrador

Like great grey fingers reaching for the sky, the basalt columns of The Organ at the Giant’s Causeway held me totally captivated as a child. I would stand as close to the columns as possible, lean my head back and stare skyward up along the length of hexagonal stones stacked neatly, one upon the other.

The innocent belief that only a giant could have played this stone organ, or walked along this shore was all-consuming. Any scientific account quickly washed overhead as images of Finn MacCool and Benandonner fighting their corner would play in my head.

Shame we have to grow up.

Still, the science behind the formation of the Giant’s Causeway is as captivating now as the legend once was.

Around 60 million years ago, when the old European and North American tectonic plates were on the move, a volcanic eruption caused lava to come to the surface, which cooled rapidly, hardening into the polygonal basalt columns we see today.

Science buffs can read a more in-depth summary of coastal formation here.

In 1986, the Giant’s Causeway was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for many years had a small unremarkable visitor’s centre on site until it was destroyed by fire in 2000.

Now, twelve years later, this wonderful World Heritage Site has an undoubtedly more remarkable visitor centre fitting of a natural wonder that draws 600,000 visitors a year.

Image © Marie-Louise Halpenny

Designed by Dublin-based architects henehagan peng, the new visitor centre captures the essence of the Giant’s Causeway, with tall basalt columns lining the exterior of the contemporary construction, while inside polished concrete floors and ceilings bring the outside in.

Image © Marie-Louise Halpenny

Climb up on to the grass-covered roof, which offers panoramic views of the wind-beaten Antrim coastline.

Added to create more available green space at the centre, the grass roof was one of 10 key sustainable features of the build. The mix of grasses planted on the roof and ramp was grown from seeds collected from surrounding fields to preserve the delicate local ecology.

Other sustainable features of the centre include:

• Permeable paving, the green roof and rainwater harvesting reduce surface water run-off.
• Rainwater and grey water recovery from green roof are used for toilet flushing.
• The building is heated and cooled by the Earth: 4.5km of pipework under the car park utilize geothermal energy for heating, while 1km of pipes in cool earth adjacent to the visitor centre are used for cooling.
• The basalt is locally quarried in Kilrea, from the same lava flows which formed the Causeway, but not from the Causeway area itself as the local rock strata is protected, and concrete with a high recycled content is used.

Image © Marie-Louise Halpenny

Inside, a series of interactive exhibits show how the Giant’s Causeway was made, referring to the scientific background as well as the myth behind it, and local beliefs. Mobile handsets can be carried around the centre and coast so you can listen to the history as you walk around, allowing yourself to get lost in this legendary landscape.

Image © Marie-Louise Halpenny

If you have a penchant for architecture, like myself, you might be interested in thinking behind the building’s design. Here is the architect’s description of the new centre from their press release:

The site for the visitor centre at the Giant’s Causeway is located below the ridgeline on the landward side of the cliff. By utilising the large difference in level across the site, two folds are created in the landscape. One, extending the line of the ridge, accommodates the building. The second, extending the level of the road, accommodates the car park screening it from view.

Image © Marie-Louise Halpenny

The two folds create strong lines in the landscaping, drawing all the man-made interventions together and organising the disparate requirements of the visitor centre into a singular intervention in the landscape. There is no longer a building and landscape but building becomes landscape and the landscape itself remains spectacular and iconic.

The lines that create the folds are made from a series of stacked basalt columns quarried locally Kilrea, from the same lava flows which formed the Causeway (not from the Causeway area itself as the local rock strata is protected).

For information regarding entrance fees and opening times, check out the National Trust website.

• With thanks to henegan peng architects for allowing use of their images.

What about you? Have you been to the new visitor’s centre?

Tree Adventure at Morris Arboretum, University of Pennsylvania.
Photo Courtesy of Morris Arboretum, by Paul Worchol

Why are we so fascinated with treehouses? Structurally it defies odds balanced between sprawling branches, nestled amongst the birds. Artistically, it challenges how we define space – they’re whimsical and unique looking. For whatever the reason, we’re drawn to treehouses no matter if we grew up in the city, country or suburbs.

The closest I came to having a treehouse as a child was using old bed sheets with duct tape taped to the dining room chairs.

Still, I love them.

Whether it’s a simple backyard clubhouse made from a few planks and a rope ladder, or a destination to explore on a family vacation, one thing is for sure – they’re cool to explore.

Treehouses tap into our inner child speaking to the explorer, naturalist and dreamer within all of us.

If you’re looking for a treehouse adventure, without having to stay over, these wonderful treehouse experiences might be right up your street… or tree.

Alnwick Garden, Northumberland, UK

Photo Credit: Christine Westerback

Looking for more treehouse romance and intrigue? Alnwick Garden in Northumberland, United Kingdom is a fairytale in the making. With a rose garden, cherry orchard and Grand Cascade water fountain, it’s as if you stepped into a historical romance novel.

As for the intrigue, check out the their Poison Garden with its exotic, deadly flowers. No joke, gardeners must wear gloves at all times when working with the poppies, belladonna, foxgloves and other potentially harmful blooms. Guests cannot touch any of the plants, which are caged but easily seen.

Photo Credit: Dave Pickersgill

For a more lighthearted romp, navigate the rope bridges, suspension bridges and walkways – all leading to the cedar shingled Treehouse. Created with Scandinavian redwood, English and Scots pine and Canadian cedar, The Treehouse has curious, curvy roofs that draw visitors worldwide.

It’s a 6,000 square foot structure, built in 2004 by Robert McAlpine, designed by the Napper Architects. With balconies, verandas and cottage-like structures, it reminds me of a crooked dollhouse, but on a larger scale.

Lunch and dinner are served at The Treehouse Restaurant. To add to its charm, in the center of the restaurant sits an open fire, surrounded by white lights and trees coming up through the floorboards. The food is locally grown and fresh, often accompanied by live entertainment. Or stop by the adorable Potting Shed for a drink or light meal.

Nature’s Castles at Longwood Gardens, Pennsylvania, USA

Photo Courtesy of: © Cambridge2000.com

Nestled among tulip poplar trees with hand carved dragons, the enchanting Canopy Cathedral treehouse in Longwood Gardens is a must see. Visit Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania and it’ll feel like you stepped onto a botanical movie set.

Longwood is a public garden located on 1,077 acres with 20 indoor and 20 outdoor gardens amidst water fountains and a 4-acre glass conservatory. They host artists, musicians, fireworks and holiday exhibits with thousands of stunning red and white poinsettias.

Back in 1907, Pierre duPont bought Longwood, a working farm and aboretum. As he built his corporate empire, he used his fortune to develop lush acres of gardens. His generous nature has touched millions because when he died in 1946 the trust he set up took over and opened Longwood to the public.

Fast forward to today. Longwood is open 365 days a year, even on Christmas day. The temporary treehouses were so popular, they’ve now taken up permanent residence.

Make sure you explore all three: The Canopy Cathedral, the Lookout Loft and The Birdhouse. The treehouses stand alone on steel supports with a pin foundation which protects their roots to avoid damaging the trees.

The majestic Canopy Cathedral is the most unique treehouse out of the three. It is a replica of a Norwegian Church with church pews. Inside, the double stairwell allows visitors a great view of the Italian Water Garden.

Photos Courtesy of: © Cambridge2000.com

The Lookout Loft is a more rustic, simpler structure than the Cathedral with only one floor, yet very pretty. Designed and built by Bill Allen of Forever Young Treehouses (now known as The Treehouse Guys) from Warren, Vermont, it’s similar to an Adirondack themed home. Built closer to the ground, it is wheelchair accessible. Nearby there’s a self-guided meditation Forest Walk to explore.

The smallest of the three, the Birdhouse looks like a classic, kids clubhouse. With two flights of stairs leading up to the top, it’s a fun climb. Jake Jacob and Pete Nelson of The Treehouse Workshop of Seattle, Washington built both the Cathedral and the Birdhouse.

If you get hungry after all that exploring, you can eat at The Terrace, Longwood’s certified green restaurant. It uses only the freshest fruits and vegetable. Also, it has efficient lighting, sustainable furniture made with 70% recycled materials and eco-friendly flooring.

Morris Arboretum, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, USA

Tree Adventure in the snow.
Photo Courtesy of Morris Arboretum, by Paul Meyer.

The people of Philly obviously love their treehouses. Out on a Limb: A Tree Adventure at the Morris Arboretum offers yet another reason to let your inner child run free. It is a walkway built on stilts within the trees, leading to a suspended man-sized Bird’s Nest.

Don’t miss the 250-year-old Chestnut Oak tree, which is the centerpiece of their exhibit. Designed by Metcalfe Architecture & Design this exhibit focuses on tree specimens, so they took great care in protecting them as they created this adventure.

As with the previous treehouses, the structure doesn’t actually touch the trees – they’re protected with wooden slats and stabilizing fabric. In case of any weather damage, each piece can be repaired separately. Furthermore the whole exhibit can be moved if necessary with cranes and reassembled.

Photos Courtesy of Morris Arboretum, by Paul Warchol

The steel micro-piles don’t hurt the trees roots like cement ones would, and help hold up the 450 foot long walkway and suspension bridge. The walkway is made out of harvested back locust wood decking, which doesn’t need to be pressure treated and withstands the test of time.

Leading across the bridge to the Bird’s Nest, children love “sitting” on the eggs that are left behind. There’s the Squirrel Scramble, a rope-netting that visitors sit on to relax. Being 50 feet up provides great views allowing visitors a new perspective.

And that’s the whole point of treehouses, a fresh and new perspective.

Do you have a secret passion for treehouses? Which one is your favorite?

A place of wonder and amazement, the Petrified Forest National Park reveals timeless fossils, beautiful scenery and an extensive natural exhibit of colorful petrified wood. Tourists travel from around the world to see this amazing display of nature that has been frozen in time.

The park is located in the northeastern part of Arizona, approximately 3.5 hours from Phoenix, and covers over 93,000 acres. The boundaries of the park were recently extended, increasing overall acreage to over 218,000.

Brief Park History

The discovery of petrified wood in the park area dates back to 1851, found by Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves. Then in 1853, Lieutenant Amiel Whipple documented the petrified wood that’s now included in the park. In December 1906, the area was declared as a “Petrified Forest National Monument” by President Theodore Roosevelt.

From that time forward, construction began in and around the area, adding a museum, the Painted Desert Inn, bridges, roads, trails, etc. In December 1962, an act of Congress established the Petrified Forest National Park, doing away with the monument status. Although a president can establish a national monument, only Congress can declare a place to be a national park.

Facts about Petrified Wood

Petrified wood is wood that has been turned to stone, or quartz crystal which is brittle and shatters. Petrified wood is harder than steel even though it is fragile. The petrification process begins when wood is covered with water and mud that contains volcanic ash. A chemical reaction occurs that encases the wood in quartz crystals and eventually turns it to stone, a process that can take over a million years to complete.

The beautiful color schemes of petrified wood reveal the chemistry of the petrifying groundwater. Manganese, copper and iron in the water or mud during the petrification process give the wood a combination of different color ranges.

Park Entry and Attractions

The park is open year-round except on Christmas Day. Entrance fees are minimal for bicyclists, hikers and those driving through the park. Senior citizens who are U.S. citizens receive a generous discount, and those who are disabled can enter the park at no charge. The park also waives activity fees for educational groups.

Park visitors can travel by foot, vehicle, bicycle or even horse to tour the vast collection of petrified wood. Logs as large as 200 feet long and 10 feet in diameter have been found in the park! The petrified wood offers brilliant colors that are a true desert treasure.

Visitors can also see the gorgeous Painted Desert and the Painted Desert Inn, a National Historic Landmark that’s located within the park. The park offers nature walks, backpacking, horseback riding, bike trails, a museum, a gift shop, and a variety of educational ranger programs. The Junior Ranger program is geared toward helping kids learn about the fossils and resources at the park.

Many fossils have been found in the park, from horseshoe crabs to ancient reptiles from the Late Triassic period. Paleontologists frequently explore the park’s treasure of fossils to learn more about this period.

The Petrified Forest National Park is not only scenic, but also educational. It’s a great place to bring kids and let them explore the history and nature of the desert.

Written by Candice Pardue

Image Credits: Ethan K / Wolfgang Staudt / Finetooth / Finetooth / goldenratio / vteen / Jeff Kubina / bdinphoenix / sbisson

Have you been? Have you got a favourite national park?

SEEtheWILD is a non-profit project of the Ocean Foundation that promotes conservation-based travel opportunities, which not only protect the environment, but work to improve it. Now they’ve released a new online magazine, WildHope, to continue to get the word out about these opportunities and how readers can get involved.

The free, quarterly magazine contains in-depth features on destinations, conservation activities, travel planning and the impact conservation has on individuals.

Award-winning writers and photographers have come together with company founders, Dr. Wallace J. Nichols and Brad Nahill, to create an inspiring, informational resource for people interested in taking vacations that put their passions to work.

Focused on sea turtle life, challenges and rescue, the inaugural issue of WildHope stays centered on one of the trips offered by SEEtheWild: Baja Camping & Turtle Research. However, it’s anything but straight advertorial for the group’s services.

Seasoned travel writer, Kate Siber, takes readers on the adventure as she experienced it herself. Talented photographer, Neil Osborne, gives us an inside glance at the life of the amazing sea turtles living in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. Readers are also treated to a to-do list for turning any vacation into a helpful eco-adventure, and Nichols pens an essay on the personal benefits of using time to help Mother Nature thrive.

As an extension of their parent company, SEE Turtles, started by the conservationists in 2008, SEEtheWILD encourages travelers to get involved in saving the very animals they have journeyed to see.

The trips sponsored by SEEtheWILD range from family-friendly holidays to high-impact adventure forays. They include some of the most exotic locations nature has to offer and involve the following species:

• Grizzlies and Spectacled Bears (such as, Wild Pandas)
• Macaws, Penguins and Sea Birds
• Leatherback and Green Sea Turtles
• Whale Sharks, Hammerheads and Manta Rays
• Humpbacks, Gray Whales and Orcas
• Jaguars, Lions and Tigers

Subscribe to their free quarterly magazine or find more information on their travel tours and conservation trips by visiting SEEtheWILD.

Sources: The International Ecotourism Society and SEEtheWILD

Photos: Courtesy of SEEtheWILD

You know you’ve landed on a great find when your shoulders unhinge themselves from your ear lobes. Tucked behind the bustling lanes of Nicholson Street in Brunswick, by the banks of the Merri Creek, this little oasis of calm is one of Melbourne’s hidden gems.

Whether you’re a mum looking for a place to entertain your mini devils (and soothe your shattered nerves), a gardening enthusiast searching for a plot to call your own, or just someone wanting a lovely latte in a chilled space then CERES is the spot for you.

Old Landfill Site Becomes a Leader in Sustainability

It’s the story of a great reuse project. Built on a decommissioned landfill site that was once a bluestone quarry, CERES (Centre for Education & Research into Environmental Strategies) is now an award-winning, not-for-profit, sustainability centre and urban farm covering 4.5 hectares of Brunswick soil.

Recognised as a leader in community and environmental practices worldwide, CERES is popular locally for its organic market, café, nursery and Fair Food organic delivery program. On site practices demonstrate sustainable agriculture, renewables and water conservation in action.

It is also key in teaching sustainable practices to children through the Sustainable Schools program across the state of Victoria.

Flora, Fauna and Food

Entering the park from the main entrance on the corner of Roberts and Stewart Streets, you’ll find a great well-stocked nursery with a wonderful selection of fresh herbs, plants and flowers for your garden. The staff here are more than happy to help you choose the right plant or soil for your needs and will happily explain how to manage your purchases if you’re a total gardening noob.

On the same level as the nursery is The Merri Table & Bar, which caters for all types of functions. They offer seasonal menus showcasing the organic produce grown on site, as well as locally grown and low-mileage produce from within Victoria.

Following the winding path down further into the grounds, you’ll find the organic market, which is open most mornings, and sells produce grown on the CERES allotments. It is really reasonably priced, and always tastes great.

Beside the market, you won’t be able to miss the chook enclosure. Here they keep 250 Isa Brown laying hens, all called Hazel. It’s a great pitstop for parents with small children, who can spend as long as they like tormenting the mild-mannered chooks – although, poking and prodding the poor things is discouraged.

Here, you’ll also find a cosy corner café, which holds live music sessions every Wednesday morning, making this a good stop for parents wanting a caffeine top-up and somewhere to entertain the troops.

CERES onsite shop sells canned and dried goods – mostly organic – and has an excellent (and cheap) refill station for your oats, nuts, household cleaners, liquids and detergents.

Descending into the park you’ll see various installations and educational facilities – a lot of local schools use the park to teach the next generation about green technologies and how to harvest energy from the elements. A wind generator towers over the buildings on the upper edge of the site, and various vernacular structures are dotted around the park, with explanations of each attached to placards outside so anyone can learn on little on their visit.

Park the Kids in the Playground and Pull Up a Pew

Impressive rows of vegetables and other produce line the paths to the main café, which sits in the centre of the park. It has a large covered over area – fantastic for hot sunny days, although it’s equally good when you’re caught out by Melbourne’s changeable weather.

Most of the fare from the café is basic, but tasty. They do the best tofu and pumpkin rolls – or as I call them, veggie sausage rolls – yep, it’s hard to convert a carnivore, but trust me, these are good.

There is always a great selection of homemade cakes, and if you’re looking for something a little more exciting than coffee, there is a tiny collection of organic beers and wines to choose from, too.

CERES really is a winner for those with kids. Parents can shake off the shackles for a while, safe in the knowledge that their little cherubs can’t get up to too much mischief… for the most part. Perched on a steep hill right beside the café is a great adventure playground.

An igloo-style handbuilt hut sits mid-hill, and a treehouse made of twigs and bicycle wheels overlooks the whole park. Nearby an old wooden boat provides plenty of opportunity for imaginative play, and a small sandpit keeps all ages happy. The only thing you have to do is sit back, relax and hope nobody breaks a bone on your watch!

During the summer, CERES often holds mini festivals on the grassy areas near the café, and features an intriguing array of workshops and music session on a regular basis. The bike maintenance station and workshop is especially popular with locals as CERES is accessible from the bike path that runs along the Merri Creek.

If you’re only visiting Melbourne for a short time, I urge you to take a trip to the northern suburbs and get lost for a while in CERES. So many people head south to the beaches and backpacker areas of Melbourne that it is often missed, which is a shame.

Getting There
Take the 96 tram and get off at the corner of Nicholson Street and Blyth Road. Walk about 100 metres down Blyth Road and you’ll see a sign post to the park on your left. For further directions, see CERES website.

Opening Times
Although the café and markets have certain closing times, the actual park is open during day light hours, and is always FREE to enter.

Image Credits: Eco Traveller / CERES / Purple Party People / Little Eco Footprints / Best Cafes

Do you have a great environmental park near you? Please share it with us and our readers in the comments. Thanks.

We recently featured a Journey Through the Alhambra; a personal account of a visit to the stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a truly amazing example of how architecture from various cultures and times can blend, and, over time, look as if they’ve always belonged together.

The Alhambra, located in the Andalucían city of Granada, was once home to the ruling Emirs in Spain, and it was for them most of the Moorish-style additions were made.

The flourishes, arches, curves and arabesques that so inspired Arabic writing influence every structure and space; Islamic architecture at its best.

Here we celebrate the patience and workmanship of the stonemasons of long ago. Their ability to carve even the smallest detail onto surface after surface is testament to an art form that is so sadly all but lost. And it is not always appreciated.

This is an opportunity to take time out, sit back, and marvel in the intricacy of their handywork. It’s only a shame we can’t be there in the flesh.

1. The Palacio del Portico, which dates back to the 14th century, is located in the upper part of the Alhambra, where the bedrooms and lush bathing spaces were situated.

Image: Jan Zeschy

2. Patio de los Arrayanes, or Court of the Myrtles, is where the wives and mistresses of the monarchs would have lived. Central to the court is a pool that aided in the cooling of the palace. It would have been difficult and expensive to maintain it properly, as water was in such short supply at the time.

Image: Perry Planet

3. The repetitive sequencing of these tessellated tiles may have inspired one of Spain’s greatest architects to use bright, colourful tiles in his designs. Antoni Gaudí used them on the exterior and interior of many of his buildings, most of which can be found in Barcelona.

Image: Patrick Gruban

4. Typical Islamic-style windows. The eight-sided star above and centre of the windows is a recurring symbol in Islamic architecture. It is said to be the sign of the prophet and symbolizes the perfect accord between Allah, man and the universe. However, it is not unique to Islam; many other cultures use the same symbol around the globe.

Image: Javier Carro

5. Courtyard of the Lions. Sitting centre stage of this courtyard is an alabaster fountain supported by 12 white marble lions, said to stand as symbols of strength, power and sovereignty. When the fountain was first created, every hour water would spurt from one of the lion’s mouths, a feat that would have required a great deal of technological ingenuity, and something that fascinated those that saw it at the time.

Image: comakut

6. Courtyard of the Lions was built under the instruction of Mohammed V. It’s rectangular ground plan and gallery are more Christian in style than Muslim, but the exquisite inscriptions etched on to the stone tell exactly when and by who it was built.

Image: Mr eNil

7. Detail of the cloisters, Courtyard of the Lions. The natural striations within the white marble enhance certain aspects of the coving, with colourful surprises wherever the eye looks.

Image: Tim Bray

8. Both the composition and wonderful detailing around the door make for a great shot. The window offers a fantastic photo op over Granada.

Images: Simon Tong and Wenjie, Zhang

9. A beautiful example of the intricate stone work that is found on so many surfaces throughout the Alhambra.

Image: _guu_

10. Note the same eight-pointed star design on the door to the right, and throughout the designs on the stone wall and arches.

Images: Mordac and Lindsay Holmwood

11. It’s hard not to be in awe of the workmen who carved details such as this into stone, with nothing more than a hammer and chisel. Astounding.

Image: Yves Remedios

12. The detail on the ceiling reminds me of a snowflake viewed under a microscope. So much work!

Image: Liam987

13. Beautiful images highlight the wonderful multicoloured hues of the marble.

Images: Simon Tong

14. The eight-sided star from below.
Image: Shoes on Wires

15. And how it might have been. The Hills of the Alhambra, by Samuel Coleman, hangs in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Painting by Samuel Colman via wallyg

Sources: 1, 2, 3

What type of architecture do you like to track down on your travels? Feel free to share your favourite building in the comments below.

Glimmering before me, water seems to dance along the path like fireflies fluttering in the evening twilight. Light forces its way through arches creating reflections of their casted shadows. I am caught in a trance, transfixed by this unique architecture surrounding me; Moorish influenced with splashes of Spanish styles throughout.

Perched on a hilltop in southern Spain, on the banks of the River Darro, sits the Alhambra; an iconic relic of Spain’s Moorish past.

Often referred to as an “alcabaza”, or fortress, the wonderful Alhambra is so much more than that; it encompasses palaces, gardens, and intriguing examples of Moorish architecture throughout. It is also one of the most visited UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world.

Overlooking the city of Granada, with the Sierra foothills breathing down on the town, it was a perfect location for the conquering Moors, who claimed the 9th century citadel on the site as their own. They added to the existing buildings extensively during the 14th century, resulting in a construction that was incredibly innovative for the time. Later rulers left their mark over the years, with the last additions being made in the 16th century by Charles V.

Standing in front of the Patio de los Arrayanes, or Court of the Myrtles, I am transfixed once again – the still water produces an exact replica; the arches cutting perfectly through the pool’s surface.

Walking through the gardens, water seems to be speaking to me as I pass by, guiding me through. As it flows gracefully downhill, I follow. Continuing on through the gardens, it’s as if the flow of water is endless. The complexity of the system is fascinating, a feat of ingenuity at the time.

From dancing fountains and lions spurting water to horseshoe arches and intricate tiles carefully placed to result in astounding designs, the Moors had a wonderful way of integrating water and art. Water often features prominently in Muslim design to create a sense of continuity, a flow between indoor and outdoor spaces. Arabic flourishes influence every nook and cranny. There is no need to wonder why the Alhambra is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

By definition, UNESCO world heritage sites are “….sites of outstanding cultural or natural importance to the common heritage of humanity.” The Alhambra is just that, outstanding. In order to keep it in that state for future generations the number of visitors per day is limited. Because of this, I would highly recommend buying your tickets online.

It’s comforting to know that this grand fortress that tells so much of a country’s history is being actively preserved. An ongoing maintenance and restoration programme is set in place to ensure the Alhambra remains one of the top UNESCO sites. This includes a conservation, archaeological and fauna biodiversity programme, which will oversee “the sustainable preservation, planning and management of the landscape, as well as the conservation of the ecosystems and natural habitats.”

Hopefully, you will enjoy the beauty of this captivating complex as much as I and respect all the efforts being made in protecting this ancient alcabaza; the Alhambra.

Image Credits: Jason Steenblik

What’s your favourite UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Tucked away among the trees of Holaved forest in southern Sweden is a totally off-the-grid eco retreat designed to encourage residents to reconnect with nature.

Known simply as Urnatur, this small family-run complex has been offering visitors an experience that “stimulates all the senses” for the past twenty years.

If ever there was proof that the concept of ecotourism is not new, this is it.

Hand-crafted wooden cabins with grass-covered rooves blend into the natural surroundings. An ‘air castle’ hides within the towering evergreen’s spindly branches, accessed by an impressive hand-built spiral staircase, and a wonderful treehouse provides a whimsical treat for solo travellers. Interiors are the epitome of Swedish design, integrating elegance and simplicity, without impacting at all on the environment.

For owners Ulrika Krynitz and Håkan Strotz, their wish to live as one with nature has seen them develop their dream into a reality. Over the years, Urnatur has grown from a small sustainable farm to include the hotel and conference centre, as well as being an outlet for Ulrika’s nature-inspired textiles and products, which decorate the rooms and lodge.

Meals are mostly made up of local and home-grown produce – berries, wild herbs and mushrooms are picked in the immediate surrounds and lamb comes from the owner’s own flocks, making the journey from farm to table in a matter of moments.

Guests are encouraged to tap into their inner Bear Grylls by taking a class in foraging or basic fire and knife skills. Håkan, the owner, also offers tuition in working with timber for those keen to learn a few tricks of the trade from a master. You only need look at the Wood Hermitage for evidence of his remarkable carpentry skills – all the buildings, except for the main cabin, were built by hand using trees blown over during severe storms in 2005 and 2006.

If survival tactics are all too much to bear, there’s always the chance to relax and unwind in the wood-fired sauna or outdoor wooden bathtub onsite, or take off by yourself and discover what lies beyond the hermitage’s boundaries.

Be sure to explore the area in daylight as only old-school kerosene lamps are available to light the way when darkness falls. Then, when the sun finally sets, fire becomes the focal point of the night. Sit by the wood burner stoking the embers and enjoy the hypnotizing sounds of the surrounding forest.

Urnatur was recently awarded the coveted Grand Travel Awards Ecotourism Prize for 2012 for their efforts in active preservation of cultural heritage and measures to promote biological diversity. The awards are run jointly by the Ecotourism Society of Sweden and trade journal Travel News.

When to Go

The season runs from 1 April to 15 October. Bookings must be made in advance.

Getting There

Urnatur lies 7 km outside of Ödeshög. About three hours by car from Stockholm and Malmö; two hours from Göteborg. The closest train station is roughly three miles away at Mjölby and Tranås. Swebus stops at Östgötaporten in Ödeshög.

Have you ever stayed somewhere completely off-grid? Tell us about it…

Image Credits: Urnatur

When I tell people I swam with porpoises over vacation, they don’t wait for me to tell them the rest of the story before they fill in the details themselves.

Suddenly, in their heads, I am either the pipe-smoking father of an ’80s nuclear family petting a tame and labrador-stupid dolphin in a Seaworld tank, or a skindiver holding the fin on an ocean roller coaster beneath the surface of Photoshop-blue water, my snorkel bubbling away like a streamer behind me.

Neither of these is what it is actually like. If anything, it’s closer to Jaws.

It was eight AM, and I was watching my grandmother play solitaire on her iPad after taking a quick morning dip in the ocean. I never caught the end of my aunt’s sentence that began with “Look, there are porpoises…” as I bolted off the deck, but as my feet churned the morning beach into sprays of sand, I could only assume she was going to finish with something like “…out where the obvious fins are, past the breakers,” and not “…on the coloring book I found for you!” (which, with my aunt, was a distinct possibility.)

I hit the tide at a run, Baywatching my way over the knee-high water until I was far enough out to dive, and then threw myself headfirst into a swim sprint to the horizon. The waves were low, and each time I popped over a crest, I could see a gray fin disappearing into the distance a little further away than it had been.

I pressed on, far past the breakers, into the calm water, but each reconnaissance yielded fewer porpoise sightings.

They were swimming away.

No need to push all the way to England for nothing, I decided, and slowed to a lazy tread. And as I was catching my breath, no further than a short-bus-length away, a gleaming gunmetal body surfaced, blew a plume, and vanished again. And I suddenly became very aware of a number of things.

It’s All Hollywood’s Fault

The thing people underestimate is our years of Hollywood training. Although I know that there is literally nothing to be afraid of, decades of dumb movies slam back to you in an instant, and you begin to notice things. Things like, the shore is very, very far away. The water is so murky that I can’t even tell if I have toes. And that I am alone, for hundreds of meters to hundreds of miles in all directions – alone, that is, except for the glittering tubes of solid muscle invisibly reveling unnervingly close to me, and revealing themselves with a wave of a fin that my blockbuster-conditioned mind tells me looks an awful lot like a shark’s.

I thought I had been looking for them as I swam out, peering above the waves, but as I bobbed and waited for the next breach, I became uncomfortably aware that I was no longer watching them – they were watching me.

The sonar of cetaceans is so powerful they can essentially see through your body. I couldn’t even see my feet, and they were watching my heart beat out its nervous drumroll under the water.

I was in their world now, and it was no mistake that out of the entire shoreline to swim in, they were close enough for me to hear each plume. They were investigating me. I was sunburned, muscularly tired, comparatively weak, mostly naked, and even at my best I would still be completely at the whim of these three very smart, very strong, and very wild animals.

I floated at the surface as they spiraled invisibly around me, paddling slowly in place. The water would be unbroken for what felt like minutes, and then close by in my peripherals another fin would cleave the waves. I had no idea where they were, or if they had gone, before another playful tail would slap the water to my side. And then finally, as I waited for another, the minutes extended and the surface remained still, and I realized I was alone.

The Price of Our Wonder

The world is alive, brilliant with the entwined lives of millions of species, but the idea of an inanimate landscape is something incultured into us as we grow up around great cities and man-made marvels – machines built to do our bidding and only exactly what we command them to do. They will not move unless we direct them to. They will die without our fuel.

Roads lash the country to the earth we inhabit like great granite webs, and cars travel these veins like cells, washing through mountain passes in days that a century ago were impassable.

I don’t know how a computer works. I trust it.

If I was thirsty, I could go inside, and with the turn of a handle, an unimaginable labyrinth of steel pipes beneath my feet would deliver a cool cup of clean drinking water into a glass.

As I watched the sun set later over the endless condominiums stretching along the coast out of sight, I realized with a touch of sadness that I could barely picture a beach unmarred with the warts of civilization.

The wonders that mankind have created have allowed us to live lives that divorce our physical needs from the difficulty of obtaining them – food, water, are but a car trip away – but our dominance over nature has come at the price of our wonder.

The Earth no longer represents a living, gently breathing giant – and if it does, it is as Gulliver, tied on its back by thousands of miles of electrical cord, highways, and shipping routes. We mine away its essence and transmute it into deadly chemicals, which we spray into the air and the water in which we live and depend. We mindlessly wipe out entire species to eat, and move on to the next, callously and systematically collapsing entire ecosystems.

Something to Tell the Grandchildren

With any generational knowledge, we could realize the difference, and correct our mistakes. But, myself included, we are born into a generation cleaved from our mother. Water comes from a bottle. Food comes from McDonalds. Where else would it come from? We have no knowledge of any other way of life.

And now I’ve told you a story about swimming with porpoises, and you are thinking how lucky I am to have done so, when decades ago whole pods of dolphins and porpoises would match pace with fishing ships and clippers and race alongside, celebrating the glory of life in the sea.

Now, we stay inside, and those who go outside are shocked by the realization that the earth is even still covered with glorious nature.

Now, most of this biodiversity is ancient history, spoken of only in stories.

I will likely tell my grandchildren of the time I swam with porpoises, before the poisoned sea choked them into death, and only photos and stories remain, to be heard but not learned from. And it occurs to me that if I had told the first people to land on this beach that in a few decades, their children’s children wouldn’t be able to remember a landscape not crammed with houses – that they would spend most of their days sitting inside a box, staring at a glowing screen – that most of the species that existed then would by now no longer exist, and few people would know, and fewer would care – they may have returned to their ships, and left.

The Glory of Nature

I think back often to those first explorers, creating human footsteps in the sand after months of ocean voyage, no true knowledge of to where they were sailing or what they would find, if they would find anything or even ever see their home again.

I imagine the world that they placed foot upon, and the thrilling trepidation they must have felt, seeing naked land, dunes and grasses extending across the earth on each side. They existed as a bubble of survival, nursing the land for each meal and each cup of water, with each day greeted as a further boon of life. But as they stood alone on that same beach, shivering in the wind, I imagine they felt as I did on the ocean that day, blind to the world beneath – that feeling of being dwarfed to nothing, the thrill of entering the void, the frailness of one’s body compared to the grandiose and the glory of nature, as an unseen great wildness observes, and beckons from the woods.

Image Credits: The Cove / Terry Goss / PR.com / Jeff Kraus / Tom Weilenmann / Bill Curtsinger / Farmlab